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Callaghan Backcountry Lodge: BC Skiing at its Best

by Laura Robinson

March 03, 2010 (Whistler, BC) – Now that the Olympics are over and the Paralympics will soon to begin, it is time for skiers to regroup. For some there are roads to cycle on with an early arrival of spring to much of the country, but for many the allure of spring skiing is paramount, as there will be plenty of time to ride a bicycle in the months ahead. The best skiing is to be had in March and April, especially in the Coast Mountain range when the evening light allows one to ski until 7pm, and with the daylight savings time change on March 14 you can easily ski until 8pm.

The perfect location in BC for spring skiing, or any time during the winter season, is Callaghan Backcountry Lodge, next door to Whistler Olympic Park where the Nordic events of the Vacouver 2010 Games were just held. The trails were closed to the public during the Olympics, but are now open. Now is a fabulous time to stretch your legs on some of the best trails anywhere and catch the post-Games excitement along with the build up to the upcoming Paralympics. You can ski from the Olympic venue directly to Callaghan Lodge and share in the inspiration and athleticism of the amazing Olympians.

Callaghan’s base hut is on the road to Whistler Olympic Park where the Paralympic cross-country and biathlon events will take place from March 12-21. It is approximately 11km up from the Sea to Sky Highway, on your left. Simply park, purchase a trail ticket and off you go…leaving all post-Olympic hangovers and debates behind as trails start 50 metres from the hut. Even the hut, where you sign in, is charming with its fireplace, leather furniture, snacks and water.

As a journalist for SkiTrax covering Nordic skiing, I was able to stay at the Callaghan Lodge during the Olympics as the trails were open to lodge guests only during the Games. On a daily basis I was able to start my ski back to the Lodge by 4:30pm which gave me just enough time to enjoy the stunning 14km trail with an elevation of 548 metres and arrive at the lodge as light faded. It took just over 1.5 hours to arrive at the front door when conditions were on the icy side, but when snow arrived in huge, seemingly never-ending flakes, the ski could take up to half an hour longer. Beginners are advised to put aside approximately hree hours one-way – it’s a ski adventure that you won’t forget easily.

Even if you don’t stay overnight at the lodge this beautiful trail is a treat not to be missed and the best bargain to be found on the west coast. You can stop for lunch if you reserve by 11:00 a.m. of the day you are skiing. Snow is in over-abundance on this trail and while it may be raining at Whistler Olympic Park, or t-shirt weather at sea level, as elevation increases, so do snowflakes. Rain is normally banished once you are two kilometres up the mountain. Classic is the technique of choice here because so much snow can fall that even with grooming, the skate trail may still have too much accumulation.

I used a pair of brand new Peltonen non-wax classic skis and had great success in icy conditions, while my Fischer Crowns sliced through any slushy snow Mother Nature could throw at me during days with precipitation. Over the two weeks I was in and out of the lodge, half of the time the days were sunny and clear, the other half had more earthbound snowflakes packed into them than I imagined possible.

The first night I arrived, guests had just started into yummy appetizers and had cracked open bottles of wine that had been sent up by snowmobile. You can make arrangements with the very accommodating staff to have wine transported to the lodge should you decide it is a bit heavy in your pack for the ski up. The lodge runs on a generator, so everyone is careful about energy use. Showers are short and each guest receives a towel. Bringing a head lamp is a good idea if you think you are going to ski in after dusk, and for reading as lights go out around 10 pm each evening when the generator shuts down.

The rooms are very cozy and but have no private washrooms. Luxuries at the lodge come in the form of the lodge’s rustic beauty, the amazing outdoors, the great skiing and fine food, and excellent company.

If you prefer, you can get up to the lodge by snowmobile, but for me the ski up is the excuse for eating every last morsel of deliciousness that is served up at mealtime. I started my chow-down with appetizers – hummus, pita, pears, dips, crackers, and the perfect time to crack open that wine bottle. Dinner includes soup, salad, a main course and dessert, coffee or tea. Vegetarians can let them know in advance and the lodge will do up a dinner that is equal to anything served to the carnivores. Tables are arranged in family-style which makes it easy to have stimulating and vibrant conversation. I fell into the most interesting of discussions at each meal, starting with the appetizers and continuing through each wonderful, rich course. If fabulous food and skiing isn’t enough, you will also have the bonus of the great company of other guests. The ski up, superb meals, and lively debates and discussions had me exhausted and hitting the hay by 10pm.

Breakfast includes healthy whole grain cereals, toast, bagels, muffins, yogurt, fruit and coffee and tea. Even the trail lunch of a cheese and veggie sandwich, nuts, dried fruit and a brownie was yummy. Don’t be in a hurry to go back down to the Olympic trails. The conditions at this elevation of approximately 4,500 feet (1,400 metres) make for better skiing than the new Olympic venue has. There are another 15km of trails by the lodge, and all are truly inviting. I’d regularly take in the 5km Meadow Trail before skiing back into the madness of the Games, just as a way to centre myself for the day.

For a change you can also snowshoe, backcountry ski or go tobogganing – however remember you are in wilderness setting. One skier was heading out to Ring Lake with snowshoes on his back. Once he got there he had another hour trek up the mountain on snowshoes. Other guests hired a professional mountain guide for a day of backcountry skiing. Keep in mind that professional guides are far more knowledgeable about the terrain, avalanche areas, and unsafe areas – you must be well prepared for any activity off the main trails. Afterwards there will always be a fireplace waiting for you to warm up by and a comfy overstuffed chair in which to curl up with a book-so pack one in along with winter slippers.

My stay at Callaghan was quite memorable and I thoroughly enjoyed each day and evening at this fabulous retreat, a beautiful oasis amidst the non-stop energy of the Games in Vancouver and Whistler, where partying was often the buzz word. With no phone or internet guests are encouraged to truly relax and enjoy the undisturbed, natural beauty of Callaghan, while recharging their batteries.

Mo’ Info
– Day Ski Pass to Callaghan Trails (includes access to Whistler Olympic Park Trails after March 1 to April 18): $20.00
– Day Snowshoe Pass: $8.00
*After 1:00 pm rates are half-price
– Tour and Technique: 2 hrs morning or afternoon: $99.00
– Discover Snowshoeing: Up to 3 hrs: $69.00
– VIP Tour Ski or Snowshoe: Up to 4 hrs: $129.00
(All rates GST inclusive, lower rates for children and youth).

Ski In/Ski Out:
Standard Room:
– Saturday-Sunday: $199.00 (Includes all meals and appetizers, baggage transfer by snowmobile)
– Mid-week Two Day: $169.00 (Includes all of the above)
60-938-0616
877-938-061
www.callaghancountry.com
www.whistlerolympicpark.com